My Weekly Book

Fast Food Nation - Eric Schlosser

This is a very difficult book to read. Not in the sense that it’s hard to get through; given the weightiness of its subject matter the words positively leap off the page at you, partly because of the slightly episodic writing style; it’s a bit like leafing through a series of articles in one of those highbrow magazines with long-form articles like Prospect or National Geographic.

No, the problem is that you may come away with the conviction that it is simply not morally justifiable to continue to eat fast food of any sort. Not because you’re on the move and it’s the only thing available. Not because your kids like it. Not because it just tastes really, really good. Not because everyone else does, so what’s the point in being different. Not because it’s easy. Eric Schlosser’s arguments are so convincing and well-put-together that, if you believe he is writing in good faith and with half an idea what he is about, then you may also have to accept that you should never give money to a McDonalds, a Burger King, a Papa John’s, a Domino’s Pizza, a Pizza Hut, a KFC, a Subway, a Dunkin’ Donuts, a Godfather’s Pizza, or almost any other fast food chain you could name, ever again. Ever. Oh yes, or drink Coke or Pepsi or any of the other drinks that they produce.

Because, if Schlosser is right, do so and you’re not only contributing to your own ill-health and saddling your children with eating habits that could take years off their lives, all for fear of being labelled a bad parent if you don’t give them what they ask for (the notorious ‘pester power’ in action). You are also contributing to the exploitation of millions, from the rural poor and migrant workers in fields and slaughterhouses across the world, to the teens who lack the experience and worldliness to argue back against exploitation in frontline restaurant kitchens. If Schlosser is right then you’re damaging young people’s educational prospects (because holding down a 20-hour part-time job alongside school just doesn’t work well), contributing to the commercialisation of the classroom, aiding deforestation and global warming, helping to drive farmers out of business and supporting virulently anti-competitive practices and the negation of the most basic protections and the right to unionise for workers. You’re contributing to the corruption of the political process, the suborning of public money to support the business interests of a privileged few and the ever-increasing growth of car use, because it’s inextricably linked to fast food restaurants and the companies involved have spent their lobbying dollars (and pounds) on getting road improvements and planning exemptions. And tacitly condoning the most horrible animal cruelty, as well as consuming food stuffed with chemicals and hormones to make it appear more like ‘real food’ than real food could ever hope to be.

You’re doing this, and so am I, if we continue to eat fast food. But, again, even if we consider that the argument Schlosser has set out in this book is broadly right, we may still feel that we’re going to do it anyway.

And why is that?

Because what’s the point of making a stand? Because it tastes good? Because we don’t want to disappoint our kids? Because it’s easy? Because it’s cheap? Because it’s only this once? Because no-one’s looking? Because it’s going to be too much effort to go and buy some more ethical food and then cook it and wash up afterwards?

That’s just not good enough, if what Schlosser argues is right, because it means continuing to endorse all the stuff listed above, marketed by people who believe you and I are too lazy, ignorant, passive or gullible to start eating the food of the quality we deserve. Which is why reading his book is likely to be a damned uncomfortable exercise for anyone who’s not a vegan living exclusively off the gatherings of their local organic farmers’ market.

Now, on a personal level, I do think that Eric Schlosser makes a very convincing case. And I’ve been left with the conviction that I’m going to have to overcome every one of these excuses and just not eat the stuff again. Ever. Without exception. Not just for a couple of weeks, or a month, but not ever.

And that is not an easy thing to do. I rarely go in burger joints, being a longtime vegetarian, but I’m an absolute sucker for takeaway pizza. And now I feel bloody uncomfortable about eating the stuff. And I’m trying to hold that thought, even though it’s difficult, and it means not eating something I like, and having embarrassing arguments with the nearest and dearest, and it’s going to mean cooking when I’d much rather just pick up the phone, or go onto some website and order something.

Because I don’t honestly think I can live with any other course of action. And sorry if that’s a difficult statement to make. But it’s a true one.

Some links:

• Wikipedia: Fast Food Nation
• The Observer: The man who ruined our appetite
• NY Times book review (requires registration)
• Eric Schlosser: The Bitter Truth About Fast Food
• Salon: Unhappy Meals

This entry was posted on Tuesday, December 11th, 2007 at 12:29 am and is filed under 2007 reading challenge. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.